Izakaya? O Yes

"Hot shared plates" include a variety of braised, steamed, and grilled items. The best was an off-menu special, grilled yellowtail collar with mountain yam: This was a real delicacy and a lot of fish. Grilled calamari with spinach (oddly misplaced among the cold dishes) was simple, tender, and good. Pork belly braised with a little, very mild housemade kimchi and lots of maitake mushrooms was tasty, but the grilled version is better.

Warm buckwheat soba in hot, soy-seasoned broth was another winner and a pleasant way to wind down the drinking portion of the meal. The noodles were delightfully al dente, the soup nicely enriched by the yolk of a poached egg, and the whole brightened by a fistful of mizuna leaves.

Traditionally, an izakaya meal concludes with rice, soup, pickles, and tea. O Izakaya's version included a bowl of steamed rice; shredded nori, chile pepper mix, and sesame seeds to season it; burdock, carrot, and gingery cabbage pickles; and a miso soup with tofu, diced mushrooms, and a sweetish root, like parsnip.

For a more American conclusion, there are sweet desserts. The best were fresh beignets, hot out of the fryer, filled with a little quince jam and served with cool crème fraîche — the best jelly doughnuts ever. I enjoyed the chewy mochi (glutinous rice paste) cakes topped with a delicate coconut foam, but my trepid companions rejected them as they had the duck hearts and tripe.

Drinks, the essence of any izakaya, include half a dozen draft ($4-$5) and a dozen bottled beers; 40-odd wines, about a third of which are available by the glass ($7-$12); sake from $4 a glass to more than $200 a bottle, with several sampler flights; a small selection of shochu; Japanese whiskey; and some creative, Asian-themed cocktails. The "Shiso" cocktail, listed as containing sake, shiso, and rice, is really an alcoholic horchata. The flavor is wonderful, but the puréed shiso stuck in my throat. Of three house-infused shochus, the pepper and ginger are delightful, but the Meyer lemon has a bitter, medicinal flavor.

While it's easy to run up a fat tab, even those on a tight budget can enjoy the best of O Izakaya by sticking with the cheaper drinks and grilled items. Here's to the place having better luck in this tough location than its predecessors — kampai!