Specialist Referrals

The kitchen's specialty is indicated by a sign on the door depicting a glaring, demented-looking cartoon chicken. As the hostess walks you to your seat, you'll most likely see a plate of wings or picked-over bones on every table, and for good reason: This is some of the best fried chicken in the Bay Area. That, at least, was the consensus among some obsessed Korean-Americans at nearby table, who spent much of the evening discussing other favorite chicken places such as Merritt's in Oakland and Ad Hoc in Yountville.

Toyose's wings are very lightly battered, and come scalding hot from the fryer, supercrispy, and nicely seasoned with salt, pepper, and chiles. As usual at soju bangs, you don't get any panchan, just some shredded cabbage salad and a bowl of Cheetos-like puffy shrimp snacks — but so what? There isn't a better bar snack in town than these wings.

These are just three of San Francisco's numerous one-hit wonders. What are your favorites? E-mail and let us know: Robert.Lauriston@SFWeekly.com. Kombe!